Two People in Verona
I went with Jilly to Verona for a lazy weekend. On Friday evening, we flew BA from Gatwick which was a breeze. We'd checked in online and with only hand luggage we were through to duty free in a trice. The relatively new owners of the airport have done a much better job with the improved exits from the station and better signage plus a more caring management system through security. (We
celebrated at the Champagne bar). It was as good in Verona where we were in our
hotel - The Accademia - within 20 minutes of exiting (or de-plane-ing) the
airport.
On Saturday, we walked this delightful city and soon found the exquisite Piazza
delle Erbe market stalls and cafes. We crossed the River Adige by Ponte Nuovo
and crossed back on the Ponte Pietra. Something akin to the sun (last seen a
century ago) blazed down on us and we were uncharacteristically waylaid in a
brasserie. We paid €5 - absurdly - to go into a local church called San
Anastasia which was adorned in colour especially the high vaulted ceilings and
later tried the Duomo but as Mass was taking place we gave it a miss.
The whole city seemed to wake up at midday and suddenly all the tables were full
at Piazza delle Erbe as its citizens partook of a large number of aperitifs and it seemed rude not to
join them. We then found another treasure in the Piazza dei Signori and settled
for lunch at the charming Caffe Dante (he gets everywhere) where we settled for
red mullet and lamb cutlets and helped it on its way with a lovely bottle of a local
rosé.
A light sleep - three hours - and a dollop of sun cream lotion (the tube of
which was covered in cobwebs) set us up for supper. Il Desco restaurant was a
real surprise - the food was to die for - bream (again) foie gras and fruit de
mare slipped down. The helpful sommelier guided us through a glass or three of
local wines and spirits including an "I Capitelli" a Recioto di Soave from Roberto Anselmi and an Inama from Vignet du Lot (I think) . A great first day.
Sunday was much like Saturday without the sleep. It was hot, hot, hot. The
churches were full and organs, bells and hymns rang out. We ambled to the
renowned amphitheatre easily the most complete of its kind in Italy. Next month
One Direction will be trying to escape the Lions here and they will be quickly
followed by the Opera buffs (I have promised to come to the season in 2015).
Next, we sought out the Castelvechio before succumbing to bottles of aqua
minerale. The second day of sun had brought out even more well heeled locals and
after finding Juliet's pad (as in Romeo) packed with hordes of fans (Will
Shakespeare is alleged to have nicked the script from some local artist) we
stumbled on a bar to try the local delicacy - wine, soda and topped with an orange liqueur!!
My Cadogan guide book to Verona written in 1999 said this
about the pad:
"The well fondled bronze statue of Juliet in the courtyard is a bit busty for a
13 year old, but girls grew up faster back then."
We lunched leisurely at Emmanuelle's in Piazza Bra settling for red bream and a
salad washed down with yet more glasses of vino.
We loved Verona and will be back.